Latali is a village in Georgia, Svaneti, near the Patara Enguri and Mulkhra river joint. The drawing gives us general view about the arrangement of roads, rivers, houses, towers and hiking routes.
Lado Kandashvili
The viewer of Latali might get lost into the space as it is very dense with high mountains which block the views, making harder to orient. The drawing is made to give people a better idea about the general arrangement of Latali region and help orient the viewers into space of Latali region. The main road(The heaviest black line in the drawing) passing by the village is going on the slope of the north side mountain, a little higher than the rivers, which take the lowest line between mountains. Most of the houses are built in clusters along the main road. The most common hiking routes which go up the slopes of mountains(The lighter black lines in the drawing) lead to older clusters of housing. The towers(Red in the drawing) are located on both - lower and upper sides of Latali village. Almost every housing clusters have their own group of towers, which were used to defend the families living in the houses around.
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Old machubi of Jan Kvanchiani
Field Report
Machubi
Machubi is a swan traditional facility, which incorporates living space, animal shelter and storage areas with underground floor mainly used as a dungeon.
Tata Chrdileli, Ana Nibladze
**Machubi**
Location: KVANCHIANARI
**Complex and the parts of it: Machubi and tower**
The complex inside the wall included a machubi and a tower, which was demolished for the purpose of using the material for a new construction about 100-150 years ago.
There are only three three-story machubs left in Latal. Specifically, this Machubi is about four centuries old according to ethnographic material, with kilns on the facades. Originally, this was the site of the wall of the fortress, the lower part of which was later built into residential spaces.
**First floor of Machubi: Living area, Storage, Animal space, Fireplace, East window, chimney, drainage, cross ventilation**
The first floor of the swan house, which the ‘COR’ occupies, is used for storage of goods, living space and storage. The front of the cargo compartment, which was made of wood, had special holes for the animal's head to go through. The arrangement was as follows: first the bulls, then the cows, calves, sheep, and finally the pigs. The heat from these animals warmed the environment, and the people slept on a wooden platform above them, with a bowl or a pile of hay underneath.
The first-floor configuration, which originally had the entrance tents on opposite sides of each other, creates a natural cross ventilation through which the grain harvested here was drained. Currently, only one side of the façade with the entrance door is visible visually. The living space was a grain storage facility, mainly wheat, barley, and rye.
When entering the house, the first window that is found faces the east side and is called the ‘’lemzilakhvra’’ or prayer/sacred place, which is a common feature for all Svan houses. Symbols and figures that used to be abundant in the home have lost their original appearance in the current state.
In the center of the house was a cauldron, a fireplace, and a fireplace with a stone of flint for cooking food, which in turn was used to remove unwanted sprinkles. A candle placed on the head of a ‘keria’, whose symbolism reflects the heads of the oxe, was used to light the quarry and illuminate the house.
This particular machubi has a chimney built into the wall, and smoke is coming out of it, which is a rare characteristic of this type of dwelling. The smoke produced by the burning of firewood was drawn from this fuel.
The limestone, with a central part that was rough, was used for drainage, allowing the water from the first floor (cor) to go to the underground floor, which in turn prevented the water from sinking into the living space.
**Underground floor of machubi: Storage and dungeon**
One of the three floors was underground, and it was called the ‘’Lentkvir’’, or the place for the dungeon. The basement also served as a storage. It was there where gun powder was stored mined in the mountains.
**Second Floor: Storage of hay**
The second floor was a hay storage room called the ‘Darbazi’. Here, when filled to the brim, up to 70 sleds were pressed. Initially, the second-floor storage room was accessed by a staircase from the left façade of the main entrance, but over time, for greater convenience, the location of the entrance was changed along the entrance opening and eventually moved to its right façade.
Eka Khomeriki, Lado Kandashvili, Giorgi Vakhtangashvili, Felix Warsawa
"I remember tourists came here from Russia, giving us small sugar cubes. Life was totally different back then. This was a central settlement for number of reasons – there is a wood, agricultural lands and central road, which people used to get to Becho or Samegrelo. They used all lands around here for agricultural reasons. We were cultivating a wheat, corn, millet and sunroot." Interview 4, 05.09. Julien
"This is the Origin house (Fudzis Sakhli), dated earlier that 11th century, from which later the whole village was populated. People who lived there were our ancestors. The house was built with huge stones. A lot of hard work has gone into building this. It was not built by one person or family only, since then all the community is involved in building process." Interview 1, 04.05, Nino Tserediani
"In my childhood, back in 1956 all the people were involved in the building towers. In local Machubi there was the only one family name settled. They had a cowhouse on the first floor and gathering a hay on the second floor, in which there is a small hall to connect both floors. Because of that you could feed your cows from above. In 87 during snow fall, people had supplies of firewood and hay here, they melted snow for drink, used milestones for cereal and cut tunnels in the snow." Interview 4, 05.09. Julien
"They say that’s towers (koshki) is for self-defense, it is not true. This is the story spread by Russians. How come, that I came to help you to build it and you can use it later against me? – if we were rivals and wanted to kill each other, I would certainly won’t help you with anything, right? – but sometimes natural equilibrium is disrupted, without which there is no understanding of your culture and you can read it on any place: on Lemziri bread, traditions, towers, stones and everywhere." Interview 1, 04.05, Nino Tserediani
Dadeshkeliani Landlords always wanted to dominate the village, and the whole Latali swore an oath to protect their freedom, because Latali belongs to free Svaneti and there is an equal society, you have no right to prevent this. According to definitions, Tali means equal (in Georgian – Toli), but I think that it is a gate, some kind of sanctuary which one can use to protect oneself. It gives you something regarding the society – they are the most reliable people, because here I am, I came here for a shelter you will host me, do not betray me or take my life. That's why there are so many treasures in the territory of Balskvemo Svaneti, Dadeshkelians took out everything in Svaneti and gave it to the Russians who came here. And we kept this treasure and protected it as our own. When I am free, then I divide the time according to the calendar, then I divide the space into the sacred and profane, then I have the right to be with you as a human being, but sometimes as I should be with God.
Every single stone here tells a story, the main thing to do is to know this story and talk about it. You have to revive the history, otherwise, the towers and buildings are everywhere and they themselves have no importance. You should feel how much energy it takes to build such towers. The histories are told by everything: the tower, the Lemziri bread and nature per se. Latali remains all the traditions and past days – 255 days are sacral here and it comes from an ancient time. For me, this place is a starting point for everything.
Local inhabitants continued living on the ruins of their ancestors' towers and tried to be creative while constructing their social space and living environment.
Eka Khomeriki, Lado Kandashvili, Giorgi Vakhtangashvili, Felix Warsawa
"I wanted to make this place a little bit alive, so I put these things on façade. I also want to find out more things about this place and give this knowledge to the next generations. They should know where they live and respect it." Interview 5, 05.09, Nestani
Acording to locals at the enterance of their living complex there was a huge gate which was below two-storey building. People used to live on the first floor and second floor was called "Kalo" which was a place for reproducing agricultural goods (for instance millet, beans e.t.c).
Ruins of one of three towers
"Every single stone here tells a story, the main thing to do is to know this story and talk about it. You have to revive the history, otherwise, the towers and building are everywhere and they themselves have no importance. You should feel how much energy does it take to build such towers. The histories are told by everything: the tower, the Lemziri bread and nature per se. Latali remains all the traditions and past days – 255 days are sacral here and it comes from an ancient time. For me, this place is a starting point for everything." Interview 3, 04.05, Nino Tserediani
"They used to have the niche of Saint Barbare here, on which many people used to pray back in old times. Actually, it was situated within the tower, but after all 3 towers were destroyed here, it left like this – under the sky, that’s why I asked my son to make this cross on this place and then build some fence around it to protect it from animals. In general, everything here is based on the ruins of old tower – we used these huge stones to build our new houses. I have no idea how could they bring so many and so huge stones here." Interview 5, 05, 09. Nestani
"I remember that when I was young life was different – whole village used to help each other during agricultural works, building houses or towers. By night, even woman when they were working with wool, they were gathering, worked together and tell stories and gossips all night. Mother-in-laws used to cook different food back then. " Interview 5, 05, 09. Nestani
"I feel a different peace when I go there. When I am in stress, I always try to come here, the feelings here are a way different. I do not know why – maybe I know so many stories about it. I heard a lot of stories and maybe I am under the influence of it. Deep in myself, there is an enormous respect towards old things." Interview 5, 05, 09. Nestani
"Here is a tunnel too which starts down there, from the river (the place is called Santaishi) and ends up here, between towers. I have never been there, but I know this from one man, who decided to get here. " Interview 5, 05, 09. Nestani
As you might know, there was Georgian feudal, Tatarkan Dadeshkeliani, who had no wife and tried to remain his virginity until hi marriage. This man loved this place and he visited one spring down there very often. In some cases, he only came here to drink water from there. Once, he might come later and he stayed on top of the entrance of towers – back then there was a second floor here with a living room. Tatarkan slept here and next morning he said nobody should sleep here and that’s it, I saw something that made me to say this. So, he said, you can use this place, keep it clean, but do not let anyone stay for sleep. As you can see there is no room left here.
As locals explain, the etymology of *Zagraali* comes from the words *za*, which means rocky highland and *Graali* indicates the grail, a saint drink that holy fathers used during the sacrament. So, this settlement is deeply connected with local history and should be explored.
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Angel's footprint frontview
Photography
Angel's footprint
There's a legend: an angel stood on this stone and called an Kvanchianari man to come to her. But he disbelieved in angels and didn't obey for which he was cursed into not having an offspring and to have an eye defect.
Cathedral of the Ascension of the Savior. XIII century. The main temple operating in lathal. In the temple there is fresco of the consecration of king Demetrius. King Demetrius I who later became a monk as Damianus. The temple was painted by the king's artist in 1140. The frescoes of sanctuaryhave been cleaned. Precious icons, which are kept in the cathedral today, were kept in families during the communist period in Georgia, including the Tamlian family. To the east of the entrance to the courtyard of the temple, there is a bell tower, which was built around 1970 instead of the old one. The temple in built withSbendik stone. ''initially, during construction, the stone is cut like cheese, it becomes more and more dense over time.'' The stone is extracted from chalai george, ''chalai'' in this case being the name of a spacific river. Even in general ''chalai'' means river in svan language. In addition to the restored frescoes in the temple, the roof has been replaced, the spire has been repaired. There is a cemetery in the yard of the temple, which is typical for Svaneti, the following people are buried: Tserediani, Stepliani, Gurguliani, Tamliani.
The photos of the inside of the building were taken as individual shots and stitched together as a panorama, to show the scale of the paintings and the detailed design as one.
Church of the Savior (Matskhvarishi) is a single "navi" church.
Ani Sadunishvili
Example of Single Navi church.
Church yards also serve as burial grounds for family names, they all share a rule that burial north of the church is not allowed, as ground is covered by a shadow.
Typical view of Ladbashi.
These sketches analyze common rules and approaches to spiritual architecture in Latali.
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Photography
Wooden Chest
Photo Series showing a wooden chest in the home of Jan Kvanchiani.
Elisa Iljinskij, Tata Chrdileli, Ana Nibladze
Wooden chest in detail
House of Jan Kvanchiani
Jan Kvanchiani and the chest of his great grandfather
Top of the wooden chest
Garden of Jan Kvanchiani
The circles on top of the chest are associated with Lemzit, called the sun symbol. The sun is a symbol of power, light and eternity.
One of the oldest towers in Svaneti was crucial for defending the Svan's freedom.
Jutta Tränkle, Erik Belling, Elisa Iljinskij, Jannes Ulbrich, Gvantsa Tvildiani
Svan Towers are a symbol for freedom.
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3D Scan
White Machubi with Ornaments
Machubi is the name for the traditional svan living space in which people lived together with their cattle. It is not uncommon for the important components of a Matschubi to be decorated with ornaments.
Moritz Winkler, Julian Knigge
In this case the ornaments describe religious and spiritual statements as well as systems that explain the structure of the Matchubi.
A significant feature here is a wooden log that has no static properties but rather functions as a guidance system for the house.
Dariko Pharijani in her self-built house in Latali
Photography
Dariko Pharijani
Dariko Pharijani was born in Latali. First living in the Machubi her father built and after it collapsed in a self-built home she and her brother took care of. For all those years she provided for herself.
Baking bread is one of the many daily duties in a Latali family. It is always made fresh for a meal, sometimes even twice a day for breakfast and dinner.
Emma Schrauth, Rena Kunert
breaddough kneading
checking oven temperature
roasting dough on oventop to make crispy before baking it
bella resting after work
putting dough in the oven
adding bread to stack
letting bread cool down
bella waiting for bread to be ready
checking unfinished bread
These photographs show the process of baking bread.
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Interview
Roland Gvirgvliani
Interview 6, transcript: Roland Gvirgvliani, 07.09.2023, Gvirgvliani family.
Giorgi Vakhtangashvili
. 07. 09. 2023, Gvirgvliani family.
[Agreement that the baker woman will be filmed, as well as the child with the horse].
We can start when you are ready. . .
Q: What was life like in the Origin House , from which the whole village was settled? What can you remember your childhood?
I remember these true stories from my childhood. I was born in Latal, 300 meters from here in an old Svan house, but they wanted to buy our house as a museum. My father refused it. The director [of the museum] asked my father but he refused. However, they would also promise a salary and protection of the house, but my father could not agree it either- I cannot be called the seller of the house – he said. Agreed with nothing. The time passed and he regretted this decision - I am worried about this story because this house should be renovated, but the walls were torn down, 3 brothers lived there before, my grandfather, my grandmother and 3 brothers, one of them did not have a son, the rest have. . . they all resettled. we left only up to 14 people in total now, we, as Hat-wearers, from whom some people who have moved further east. They were educated people.
Q: Why did they decide to open museum in this house?
It had a separated cellar, kukhna [kitchen in Russian] – as we call it Lashadi in Svan language. It was house equipped with everything, with carvings around it. There were no other house like that here.
Q: What was crafted on carvings?
Some beautiful geometric figures, animals, turs. There were more people and cattle here. They lived all together, with the fire place [Keria] in the middle of the room. People and animals were not differentiated back then, like it is now. We had a special tower here.
Q: Was it 3-store tower?
More than 3.
Q: Do you remember what was it like to live in such house with a tower?
During my time, the tower was already ruined.
Q: Did you have separated names for places in house?
For instance, we called Gubandi at entrance of the house. I remember my 3 brother and my grandfather’s wife [grandmother] used to live together.
Q: According to stories you heard from your family members, what was life like back in the Origin house?
As I know, 3 brothers used to live in there, one of them was Gvirgvlan – from which our surname comes from. He had a son Tesavi, who become a father of 3 man. This is my ancestorial line. We all come from the Origin house.
Q: What was the functions of Gubani?
We used it to keep our cereals, flour and harvest in general. Upper store was called Samarkhilo and there we kept our hay for cows and bulls.
Q: Which is the first settlement, Lahili or Latali?
Latali, obviously. We know from the German archives that there was nothing on this side, our relation saw it. The theme of Lahali still existed back then. A neighbor told us that there were some grapes in that area. There they had horses around here. Then people resettled across Enguri and the side of Latali began to settle.
Q: How many people resettled?
Many. As you know, some families grow, brothers with their wives separated, older one stayed here and other changed place.
Q: So, the house of the Origin left to elder brother?
Yes, it belonged to him. They casted a vote sometimes. The elder brother used to leave the least lands, because others shared all the lands around it and built houses. So, he, himself, left only the first building.
Q: What was the casting of vote like, as a process?
We put small sticks in the Svan hat. All of them had marks – one belongs to one person, two to the other and so on. Then you pick them up randomly and see what you have. When I was a kid sometimes, they used Spichka [A matchsticks in Russian] too.
Q: Do you remember Nadar over here?
They used to know how to help each other, but now they don't. Now it is like when you have it, you can build it, and if you don't, you can't. All villagers were obliged to help for at least 2 days, everyone had a bull, quicklime was burned and the village helped you in everything, even removing stones from Enguri too. . . with their bulls and man, you had everything to build towers and houses here.
Q: How were they producing a quicklime?
At first, you need to explode it, break it from stones and burn it for approximately 3 days. Al least 12 people was necessary to do this. Every man with a hat on his head used to go for help.
Q: Did woman also help each other?
Yes, they were producing a wool altogether. And talk. All clothes were made of it. Woman worked all night. Basically, daughters-in-law helped each other.
Q: What kind of customs or tales do you know about hunters? Did they have a special relationship with the goddess of Dali?
There was one very good hunter. He was experienced and I know that he used to light candles in mountain churches. Hunting was about sharing – sometimes you might back home with bare hands because you always share the meat with everyone you meet. Horns of the wild animal always stayed at hunter’s house who took at shot in target first. As you can see, I have a skulls and horns of chamois and tur. We drink from such horns during different important events like wedding or so. .Its capacity is 1 liter.
Q: Do you remember division of labor within the family…
Everybody worked.
Yeah, like kids taking care of small domestic animals and so on…
At first, we had no light, there was only moonlight in towers. Then we had lamps – I remember our parents were taking care of us after lightening the room during night. Once my nephew scratched me with his small sword, I still have a little scar on my hand. He cried more than me because my mother shouted at us.
Q: What was Kera and what was happening around it when you were a kid.
Yeah, it was a fireplace in the center of the room, everybody was gathering around it. We were cooking there and speak. We were baking breads according to the quantity of our family members and one more too, for any guest who could come.
Q: Why not more?
People could not afford it. However, people came here from Samegrelo and other parts of Georgia to buy things. Nobody used to die here less than 90 years. Why? – because they were healthy and eating healthy food. There was nothing imported from another countries. They were taking care of nature too – cutting a new and strong tree was a big problem back then, and now everybody is doing whatever he or she wants.
Q: So, what else did you do to protect your nature?
All these lands and trees around here what you see belonged to the people and you were responsible for it. You needed a permission to cut down even 1 tree.
Q: So, you had shared land and you were protecting it… this is very interesting…
At this time, Samurzakano was fighting us, they tried but did not defeat us. We were the last village of the free Svaneti, I tried and locked my village for 6 years. Starting from Mestia, the most daring men have united. They came to me at night, one man was from the Kvanchiani family. I believe in you; he said and get ready for it. I was told that they wanted me to destroy the area and that we should block the road at this moment. I had a horse tied close to me. I said give me explosives so I will do it. that's what he did. It was a full moon night, it is at least 5 kilometers away from here, I walked and laid mines, they would arrest me if saw me. I went out until morning and entered 2 meters deep, I looked at the mountain with binoculars to see if it was dawn or not, and I had to act on time, others were late. I tied my horse 500 meters away I blew up the dynamite. This road was opened in the 7th year, before that they could not move because of this explosion. That is how we stopped them.
Q: When did it happen?
It was during communists. It must be 40 years ago. Nobody knew who blew the road. For 7 years I gave this dale. We had a lot of battles here, in other case, we will be influenced under Samurzakano.
Q: Dadeshkeliani feuds also wanted to be here, right?
Yes, all of them. They wanted to have these lands, so we made some sanctions against them. For instance: when people from Samurzakano wanted to go through here, they had to alight from their horses and go by foot until they reached the end of Latali.
Q: So, this was kind of sanction, right?
Yes, for safety reasons we create such sanction. We told to feuds – move by foot when you cross our border.
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Interview
David Gvirgvliani
Giorgi Vakhtangashvili
Roland’s wife is Pakeliani. At first, his ancestors left highlands of Latali, Laila da started living in Lahil step-by-step. As I said, he is Kvachiani but he loves her wife so much that decided to take care of her family name’s chapel too. It is a law of the mountain that tells keep chapel closed. If somebody wants to pray there Roland should let them do so, he will also guide you, pray for his and her wife’s ancestors and give you a small tour around the chapel.
It is also known how family name of Pakeliani spread over the Svaneti – they used to live highest points of Svaneti, 3 brothers came to Lahili and then they casted a vote: two brothers sent bulls and just followed them. These bulls went and stopped approximately 15 kilometers away here, one of them went on the mountains, and one of them not.
In general, as Mr. Roland said people here were especially careful regarding their surroundings. Can you tell me why?
Yes, we were careful but not because of Russians only, but north Caucasian Muslims to tried to conquer us, so people from Latali often helped Ushguli inhabitants. Latali had a strongest army and big amount of food. Once they attacked Ushguli and our villagers not only send army but donkeys and horses full with goods, to overcome the winter. Finally, they defeated enemy and gave Latalians a huge amount of land, like 20 or 30 Hectares and named it Latalish.
When did it happen, during Russian empire or Soviet Union?
It was during Tsarist Russia, I do not remember the dates. During soviet times too – they were robbing churches. Once the king of Russia sent General-Mayor Gagarini too, when he realized that he could not defeat Svans. So, Gagarini gathered some Georgian traitors and went here. Svans found out about this, they ambushed and throw stones from above when they came here. So, Gagarini, like Youri Gagarin, was sent to cosmos through Enguri and black sea. After this, Russian Emperor said: Leave them alone, these Svans are crazy!
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Video
The Math Teacher
Leri Tserediani is a local teacher. One late afternoon he went to harvest potatoes for dinner and invited me to join him.
Anton Rusch
While we were sitting next to each other in his little truck, he started talking about what his home means to him.
Daily work in Latali is plucking beans from their stems.
Viktoria Merckens
A short observation on the practice of plucking beans.
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Sketch of the first Floor
3D Scan
Scan of Traditional Svan Tower Lakhushdi
A traditional svan tower in Lakhushdi with three storys in good condition.
Julian Knigge
First floor scan of the tower.
The Scan shows the first floor of the Lakushdi Tower.
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View on the soccer field
Photography
Urban Latali
While Latali is known for its remarkable traditions, towers and other historical buildings, it is much more than that.
Julian Knigge
Latali soccer field
under construction
elementary school
grocery store
Latali kindergarten
grocery store
newly contructed brutalist building
dentist
grocery store
countryside hotel
While Latali is known for its remarkable traditions, towers and other historical buildings, it is much more than that: Its infrastructure and the dedicated residents are making Latali a busy place that is constantly evolving and changing without neglecting the values of the past.
This 14-century tower belongs to the Chamgeliani dynasty.
Nino Oragvelidze, Giorgi Kartvelishvili
The section shows the circulation through the tower from Machubi and between the floors.
A plan of the tower showing outer circulation and general form of the tower.
A facade fragment showing a relationship between the Machubi and the tower.
A fragment of the stairs going from the Machubi to the tower.
A sketch showing how the stairs are attached to the tower.
Currently, the complex belongs to four Chamgeliani families. The complex consists of a Machubi and a tower. The Machubi has lost its original appearance and is practically impossible to enter, while only minor changes have been made to the tower.
The only way to get to the tower is from Machubi, where the staircase leads directly to the second floor of the tower. Currently, the tower cannot be entered because the stairs are rotten.
The first floor is filled with stone. In total, the tower consists of four floors. It has openings facing the east side for defensive purposes. Such a location of the openings allowed the residents to easily perceive the warning about the impending danger.
This tower is the only one that has undergone temporary reinforcement and is ready for restoration.
Nino Oragvelidze, Giorgi Kartvelishvili
The sketch showing diagrammatic plan and section with different types of circulation elements.
The interior of the Pirtskhelani tower showing the ceiling structure.
Of the towers we saw, the Pirtskhelani tower is the only one whose first floor is not filled with stone and is accessible from the second floor. According to family members, the tower was mainly used to store supplies. Due to the fact that the temperature was lower, meat and cheese were stored on the second floor, and the rest of the products were stored on the first floor.
The temple was built in 2002. Originally there was the Basilica of the Archangel of Zagari, in which women prayed without the presence of men. It was held in lidba, they baked lemzirs and prayed for the well-being of the family. The temple is built with reinforced concrete and covered with stone. In the courtyard of the temple there is an Ifan tree, which is typical for the courtyard of Svan temples. A council is held in the yard on Sundays. Community representatives take part in the council. Basically one representative from the surname, if the surname is big two representatives.
The entrance to the Elia the Prophet's Church uses a combination of Limestone and shale to create ornamentation around the door and as lintel. It includes a recent addition of wood.
Church was built in XII-XIII centuries. The temple is decorated with frescoes. Frescoes are found on the outer walls also. The pendant icon of St. George of king Tamar was kept here, which is currently kept in the family of Bagrat Nanskan. On the outer facade of the alter there are images of two clusters, three rings and a bull's head. The images were embodied in the ''jgragi'' St. George ''zvarak'' Girgvliani are considered to be the serfs of ifkhi jgrag.
The church was built in XII-XIII centuries. Pakelians were the guardians of the church. on holiday feast was held. The bull was worshiped for the peace and prosperity of the village. Also for the multitude of men.
Saint George of Shkaleri is a building of XII-XIV century. Holidays are November 23 and 6 May. Probably previously roofed with slate, the roof has been replaced. Ritual load crosses are kept inside the temple.
The church of John the Baptist is a simple in form church, which expresses its alter by allowing it to shape not only the interior, but also the exterior of the building.
The temple dates back to the XIII-XIV centuries. It was restored in 1995-1996. Small bells were found during excavation. An architectural feature is that the altar of the temple is in the south. It was painted in 2007-2008. It is built with cobble stone. The holiday is celebrated on September 11. Women performed the Lidbashi-Lemzir, during which they prayed for health, specifically for healing from ear pain.
"Naviani" is one of the types of churches located in Latali, church of Jonah the Prophet is a triple "navi" example, which displays common themes and approaches in this typology.
Ani Sadunishvili, Anton Rusch
An example of a triple Navi church, displaying a main alter and two Ladbashi - a small, public version of an alter.
While its exterior wall is flat, the dome shape of Ladbashi is curved out on the interior. The architecture is "self-sufficient", prayer book stand and donation nook are curved out of stone as part of structure. Alter and Ladbashi always face east.
"Naviani" church section drawing.
Light is an important part of spiritual architecture in Latali, for its alter and ladbashi, which are both spaces for praying, the east side of the building is chosen. Having an arched ceiling is a standard, however only alters and ladbashis have domed ceilings above them.
IX-X century temple. The temple is built with cut Shirim stone. It has an entrance from the west and south. The interior of the church was painted in the 14th century. Among the frescoes, the episode depicting the life of the Prophet Jonah, his rescue from the whale, is worth noting, which is not found in any church in Svaneti. The icon of Savior from the 11th century is preserved in the church. The 12th century icon of a pair of warriors and the prophet Saint Jonah of the Yenash church is also worth mentioning. Both with inscriptions. The temple sad the status of an immovable cultural monument of national importance. On the day of the temple festival, women begged for protection from headaches.
The photos of the inside of the building were taken as individual shots and stitched together as a panorama, to show the scale of the paintings and the detailed design as one.
On the elevated hill next to the Cathedral of the Ascension of Matskhvarysh stands the Archangel Michael Cathedral, which was given the status of an immovable monument by the decree of the President of Georgia. According to rhe narrator, the place is connected with an old tradition according to which three temples were to be built on three surrounding hills. Named after the Savior, Arcangel Michael and Saint Geogre. When they started to dig the foundation of st. George's Cathedral, they found a snake, which they considered as a bad sign, they reconsidered the construction of the temple and erected a cross in its place, which is still standing today. Arcangel Cathedral is open on Mondays. According to the narrator, ''It is amazing that temples are built at such small distances, It is unusual even in Jerusalem''
The church was renovated 5-6 years ago, based on the parish church. Here is held the ancestral holiday of the Sidians - Keryashoba. According to the narration, the temple itself was built by the Sidians. The mortuary is only theirs, this indicates that it was a very powerful family.
Arcangel (Kushkhuni) temple of KvanChiani is under construction. in construction limestone will be used. it is located in the center of Kvanchianari and is their main church.
Hall type church. It is built with local Shrim stone. Before the reconstruction, the church had wooden doors, now they have been pulled down and replaced with an iron door. The church is the crypt an main shrine of Lakhushdi village.
XII-XIII century temple. The ancestral church of the Abdelans, restored from the church. On the holiday, the woman always performed the lemzir in the temple glass, which is called lamaria. Men had the right to carry lemzir in the temple. But most of the time they also prayed at the front door. When a man prays, he wears a hat and shows glory while standing. A woman begs for well-being.
Most "Naviani" churches have rectangular shapes on their exteriors and curve their walls inside of their alters, this is an example of a church projecting that curve on the exterior as well.
The hand-drawn mapping of village Lakhushdi shows the existing three towers of each family dynasty.
Nino Oragvelidze, Giorgi Kartvelishvili
The technical mapping of village Lakhushdi showing the exact locations of the existing three towers of each family dynasty.
In the village of Lakhushdi, which is a village of singers, there were different dynasties that united several families. Each family had its own tower that represented its identity and culture.
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Video
Washing the Truck
A man is washing his truck and talks about fire wood.
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3D Scan
Suzuki Carry
3D Scan of a Suzuki Carry.
Julian Knigge
The Suzuki Carry is a typical car in Svaneti. It makes it possible to transport loads even through impassable terrain.
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3D Scan
Latali soccer field
Julian Knigge
In Latali there is a new, centrally located football field with artificial turf and floodlights.
Size: 720 square meters
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Video
Jan Kvanchiani's music
Jan is singing one of his own songs on the chuuniri (chianuri).
Elisa Iljinskij, Nadja Lehnfeld
The song is called: sarvasisakhvani. It’s to praise the god, wish for peace and forgiveness for the dead.
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Video
The Zari Sayer
Elisa Iljinskij, Jutta Tränkle, Nadja Lehnfeld, Tata Chrdileli, Ana Nibladze
Goga is a singer and teacher in Mestia, who came back to Latali ten years ago. Goga is singing "lilee", a svan song.
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Emil Kvanchiani and Giorgi Margishvili by the Enguri river
Video
Gold Washing by the Glacial River
There is gold by the river.
Elisa Iljinskij
Emil Kvanchiani shows how to dig for gold by the Enguri river with the help of Giorgi Margishvili. The traditional georgian music in the background is played by Jan Kvanchiani.
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Small pieces of gold in the pan
Photography
Photo Series - Gold Washing
Emil Kvanchiani shows the process of washing gold at the glacial river.
Felix Warsawa
The gold panners' camp on the banks of the Enguri river
This photo series captured the whole process from the beginning to the end.
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Machubi Floorplan
Sketch
Machubi Structure and Ornaments
Machubi is the name for the traditional svan living space in which people lived together with their cattle. It is not uncommon for the important components of a Machubi to be decorated with ornaments.
Moritz Winkler, Julian Knigge
Machubi Floorplan
Sketch
Wooden Log with Ornaments
In this case the ornaments describe religious and spiritual statements as well as systems that explain the structure of the Machubi.
A significant feature here is a wooden log that has no static properties but rather functions as a guidance system for the house.
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Handmade Music Instrument
3D Scan
Traditional Music Instruments
Julian Knigge
In Svaneti music plays a particularly important role. Many of the residents make music by themselves.
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Floorplan of the Machubi
3D Scan
Machubi with soviet ornaments
Erik Belling, Julian Knigge
Traditional Machubi whose design has evolved with the values of its residents.
Viktoria Merckens, Emma Schrauth, Rena Kunert, Giorgi Vakhtangashvili
In Latali, women traditionally bake their homemade bread once every day, sometimes even tiwice a day.
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Field Report
Dariko Pharijank
Dariko was born in Latali, her whole family lived there and her father even built their own Matchubi. She talks about the changes she expirenced growing up here and her believes in religion and traditions.
Viktoria Merckens, Emma Schrauth, Nadja Lehnfeld
Born in 1941, Dariko Pharjiani (Disko) was born and raised in the village of Latali. It was in common to live with more than one family in one Matchubi. But before her birth, the three families, related to Disko’s grandfather, separated because of the fear for bad omens. This is the reason why Disko only lived with her brother and her parents and of course their animals together in the matchubi built by her father. During their best times her family had a lot of pigs, cows, goats and chickens. Disko remembered that it was always warm in the winter times because of the animals, even though they needed to sleep in the middle of the matchubi and the smell of the animals wasn’t the best. Today Disko is living in an apartment near the matchubi which was built by Disko and her brother.
Nowadays Disko only has two cows left and is focussing on looking after them instead of harvesting. In the interview Disko raves about the past and their huge land. Together with her family she harvested beans, corn and potatoes. That decreased when her father and her brother broke from her family.
During the interview Disko says that she is a religious person but not as religious as her nephew. Instead of going to church, she only lights a candle on Mondays. But of course, she is also involved in religious holidays and rituals like “liphaanal” and “tanaph”. Together they collect money and buy bulls or calves to sacrifice them in churches. Furthermore, it is in common that some families have an icon, which can only be seen by family members, otherwise, there will be death in the family. Disko is believing in this myth, even though the people calling her spinster. But this has a belonging. One time in the past her brother showed the icon to two women which were not related to their family. Everything seemed fine, till some months after that, he died. That’s why Disko is now hiding it in her tower and is not showing it to anybody. She even stopped answering any other questions about it, because she is worried about her brother and relatives.
The interview ends with Disko showing some old pictures.
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Field Report
Horses in Latali
Viktoria Merckens, Emma Schrauth, Giorgi Vakhtangashvili, Rena Kunert
Roland Gvirgvliani and his family always had horses. In the past they were used for hunting and traveling from village to village. They also carried heavy things that needed transporting. When the Horses didn’t want to go any further they used donkeys. Rolands son David says they are a lot more stubbern doing their work than horses so they will carry things further up the mountains.
Even nowadays horses and donkeys are still used for transport. Often times the roads get too narrow or uneven for cars up in the hills. So the horses are still important for reaching more rural areas.
Also the horses bring in money because of tourism. They rent them out to tourist or carry them up the mountains in horseback.
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Video
Lakushdi Music
Emma Schrauth, Viktoria Merckens
Muradi Phirtskhelani talks about traditional svanetian music accompanied by a woman playing the tchuniri and singing an old svanetian song.
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Traditional Chair for the head of the family, found in every Svan house.
Field Report
Machvshi Chair
Machvshi Chair translates to head of the familiy and is the main seat in the house.
Emma Schrauth
The Machvshi is he traditional chair for the head of the family. Machvshi is also directly translated to “head of the family” from the svan language. Since the chairs come from a long tradition, which are remained by the svan people, the Machvshi is found in every svan household.
Usually, the residential space was separated into men and women space, the left belonged to the men and the right side of the entrance was assigned to the women. The throne like Machvshi is standing in the mens side of the house.
